Hong Kong Travelogue 1
So I finally found a place to use the internet here in Hong Kong. I’m sure there’s one closer to where I am staying but I was SURE I could find one here on Nathan road where all the backpackers hang out so I looked harder. Now that I am online though, I’m trying to figure out why I was so anxious to get online to begin with. It was to get a hold of Christopher, but I’m not sure if he would have been able to be online anyway. Oh well. So I’m going to write an email/blog to just talk about the things that have happened so far.
Wow. My Hong Kong trip has been great so far. A lot of little miracles has made this trip smooth sailing.
1) Preparing to Leave
I spent Sunday cleaning (getting ready for Christopher’s return in my absense) and packing while listening to General Conference on my computer. It was pleasantly surprising to receive phonecalls from the YSA who were looking for me at church. They hadn’t seen my on Tuesday for Institute either and it makes sense that they worried a little. It was a crazy week. I’m glad it was conference so I didn’t have to fit church into the schedule.
I left my apartment at 5.30 after making sure the cats had plenty to eat. As it was half an hour later than sceduled, I decided to cab to Dongzhimen where the airport shuttle bus stop was instead of either walking or taking a bus (which would have taken about 20 rinutes either way). Just after I had got some food at McDonalds (for some reason I’d been craving fast food for the past couple of days with no desire whatsoever to eat any cheap Chinese) the bus arrived. Perfect timing.
I got to Terminal 3 at 6.20, lots of time to spare for a 7:50 flight. T3 is a newly opened terminal and it reminds me very much of KLIA, the airport back home. Very large and spacious and modern looking all that jazz. Nothing like the terminal before. Checking in was so painless: my first time with an E-ticket and not checking in any luggage. (A really light back pack and my usual day bag was all I brought). I made the mistake of changing money at the aiport where the rate sucked and there was a RMB50 charge for the transaction. I feel like I’ve been spending uneccessary money left and right on my Hong Kong visa run. First with the plane ticket, next with the passport photo I took at a new place which charged me RMB45(!!!) for 10 crappy pictures of me. My mistake for not asking the price first. They photoshopped all my zits out, and made the background whiter, woo hoo! Sheesh.
Anyway, at the airport, I was so excited to see a Burger King there but since I’d already sold my soul for McDonalds, I got myself a Sundae instead. I am thinking about possibly making a trip out to the airport sometime just for Burger King. Sad huh? Just like when I went all the way out to Ikea for Swedish Meatballs.
Turns out I should have not stayed as long at Burger King with my ice cream and my book. It was a trek yet to the security check and the boarding gate. Fortunately the metal detector stayed quiet for me - some other people had bad luck and were felt up by the security check girl for no apparent reason. However, they did confiscate my little bottle of saline solution I bought and left sealed specifically for that trip and had to pull out my toothpaste and deodorant before running my bag through the Xray again. I thought I was going to be toothpaste and deodorant-les (not the deodorant Christopher brought from the States especially for me!) Fortunately, they put those back in. Phew. So at least my breath and armpits don’t wreak.
I boarded my plane at 7.40. I wasn’t the last one, but it was during the last call. I got a window seat so the couple that had the isle and middle seat had to get up for me to get to my place.
2) Plane Ride
Flight went well. I always use plane rides to look out the window, ponder, think and write while sipping on the orange juice they serve. I prefer that to reading and watching a movie. Much to my surprise and delight, they were serving dinner on the plane! I don’t know why I was surprised. I guess maybe I thought they wouldn’t bother on a 3.30 hour ride. They gave me fish instead of pork like I’d asked, but I figured that since I don’t get fish in my diet very often I should just be grateful for the change. At this point, I’d already had too much to eat, but I love plane food so I pretty much finished it all. It made me glad I hadn’t got a Whopper at Burger King like I was tempted to. Next came ice cream! More ice cream. I hope my neighbors didn’t think me too weird when I got some sprite and made a yummy, foamy, ice-cream float with it instead. Mmm, that was good.
I listened to the last session of General Conference on my ipod after dinner. I really loved the talks and actually paid very good attention up until somewhere soon after the halfway mark when I fell asleep.
When I woke up, we were 1/2 hour from landing. Not a bad way to spend a plane ride, I think.
3) Arriving in Hong Kong.
I arrived at 11.10pm, about 10 minutes earlier than scheduled. After clearing immigration, I smiled to myself at not having to wait for my bag at the baggage claim and headed directly to the ticket counter to buy tickets for the airport express into town. I gave the man my $1000 bill, he gave me a round trip ticket and I started putting my change away when I realized… 100,200,300, 390 - he’d given me change for only $500!!! Not wanting to pay 610 for a train ride, I quickly said something. He apologized, said he probably forgot, told me to wait, made a phonecall. As soon as help came, they closed the booth, sent people away, and started counting up the money they had by punching numbers in the calculator and scribbling equations onto the back of the brochures that they had. I had waited about 20 minutes, and told many customers that they were closed and directed them to another counter that I’d never been to before, when finally, the man just gave me $500 and sent me on my way (even though the accounts were still a complete mess). I thought it was funny that I felt more sorry for him than for me.
So that was my “Welcome to Hong Kong” experience. The ride on the airport express was quick. I barely missed the MTR when I transfered at Tsing yi, but Heavenly Father was watching out for me and I caught THE VERY LAST TRAIN into the Hong Kong/Central at 12.32am.
On the train, I couldn’t help but think how much this place reminded me of Singapore. The only difference I could tell was the language. The Cantonese that was to me like Mandarin when I first went to Beijing - except I understood more.
I’m glad I wrote down Nicola’s detailed directions from the MTR to their apartment. I’d thought I could just figure them out on my own but boy was I wrong. I ended up going out a different exit from where I was directed but walked until I recognized the landmarks she had pointed out. The street the apartment is on, Des Vouex Rd, is a LOOOOOOOOONG one, so I’m glad I had landmarks to help me keep from wandering too far. Basically, when I got to out of the MTR, I wasn’t sure exactly where I was and how to get to where I wanted to go, but I wasn’t alone that night. I just followed “hunches”, kept my eyes peeled for something familiar, wandered just a few short minutes on the narrow streets flanked by TALL buildings that were blinking with neon lights (and that smelled of gutter in the same way Malaysia did - it actually felt very welcoming)and walked right to Central 88 - home - which is a miracle considering I had expected their apartment to be a different direction from the MTR.
They were expecting me. The night guard was very friendly, as Nicola had promised they would be. He turned out to be a Malaysian from Penang. It made me wonder about his life and his story. It was nice to be greeted by someone from home.
Nicola and Andrew’s place in Hong Kong is basically a small hotel suite with a kitchenette, a HUGE TV, a small couch, table for 2 people, a desk, and a short bed in the other room (honestly, how do either of them fit on that bed, much less BOTH?), a room with no doors, but half a wall partitioning them from the living area. Neither Nicola or Andrew are in town so it felt very much like checking in into a suite except that the closets have other people’s stuff in there. I am so very grateful for their hospitality. I know my Hong Kong experience would be much different if I had to look for a hostel in Kowloon at that time of the night instead of being immediately taken into that haven in Central HK.
It was lonely though, I have to say. It reminded me of the very first time I had traveled on my own: leaving Malaysia for BYUH the very first time. Mom had walked me through every detail of the trip. Check in here, security check, gate, board plane. Exit plane, look for the transfer counter, get boarding pass, check your luggage. Transfer to Singapore. Spend the night in a small airport hotel room. Transfer counter again to Japan etc. Last night at the Dougherty’s I was reminded very vividly of my first night away from home alone. I was excited for what the future held. I was proud of myself for having done all that alone. But I was also lonely and the prospect of being an adult and doing things alone like grow ups did was scary - and I cried.
Last night, I wrote in my journal then cried a little, wishing home (i.e. Christopher) could be a little closer. But otherwise, thanked my Heavenly Father for watching over me and for the comforts he had blessed me with all throughout, and slept soundly until Morning.
4) Finding my way around
My immediate goal the next day was to get Visa things sorted out. Unfortunately, I was not able to get myself out of bed at 7am like I had planned and ended up sleeping in till *gulp* 10.30am. REALLY late considering I had planned to be done with Visa things by then. When I got back out to the street, the adventure began again. I hopped on a tram (a “Ding ding”) which stopped right across the street, amazingly had exact change on me for it, but got off a couple of stops too early since I wasn’t sure where we were. No problem. I got myself ripped off for a map at 7-11 (but at least it was a good one with a good tourist information booklet and free - FREE! - postcards) and went from there. Navigating was no problem since I knew exactly which roads to look out for - and they are a lot closer walking than they look on the map, the roads being OH so narrow - and finally found the church building on the corner, as expected, with the visa place just accross the bridge.
5) Visa.
I wasn’t sure where I was supposed to go. But when I saw the line, about 100 people long, I knew I had found the place. To be sure, I asked the last person in line, a middle aged American who looked like he was traveling, what the line was for, .
“The bathroom” he said.
“Are you serious?” I’m gullible, like a good little girl should be. What can I say.
“It’s probably the line you want, for visas.”
I got in line behind him. We made friendly conversation on our visa situations. David, I learned, was originally from New York and then from California, and had been doing export business in Nanning for the past 7 years. We were chatting when I noticed, out of the corner of my eye, coming out of the building we were trying to get IN to, a colorful figure, the clothes, the gait -unmistakable- it was Mirjana, my co-worker who I knew would be in Hong Kong sorting out visa issues too!
My new friend was nice to hold my place in line and I ran toward her, giving her the shock of her life. We walked back to my place in line and talked a little about our situations, and because she had been there a whole day before either of us, had some good suggestions to offer about the place. She had got there at 7am (2 hours before they opened) and now, at 11.35 had just gotten out. Yikes. Where would that leave me?
The line wasn’t moving as slowly as we thought, I guess. As it turns out, it was just for the security check. We got in just barely before 12pm when they closed the doors for lunch. Wow.
As soon as we were out the elevators on the 7th floor, there was a moment of confusion “what to do next?” Everybody wanted to be first, so there was sort of a mad dash - for forms, for numbers. I pulled out the crumpled form from my bag that I had already filled back in Beijing, and asked the young man in the suit who seemed to be helping people and asked if it was too crumpled to use. He replied in a strangely refreshing Australian accent, that it would be just fine, gave me a number saying “You’ll just want to keep your eye on the board for your number” and THEN he said “Wait a minute. Take this one instead. It will get you there faster. MUCH faster.” I thanked him and then wandered around before I re-located David who had found a spot in the back corner of the room and was sitting on the floor filling his form.
Turns out, while the numbers being called at the moment were in the 230s, his number was 368 and mine, *298* I have been bumped up SEVENTY spaces. That was about a whole hour’s wait, I think. I made a small joke about cute people getting the edge, but said a silent prayer of gratitude. When I finally got to the counter around 1:30pm, I was told my pickup would be at 3.30pm the next day. If it had been an hour later, I would not be able to catch my flight back into town.
The wait wasn’t bad at all. David pulled out a deck of well-worn cards and taught me how to play Cho Dai Di/ Big 5, the version of Scum with poker hands that all real Chinese people know how to play and that I had learned at my grandmother’s funeral once only to forget after. We played while getting to know about each other’s personal lives more. It made me wonder about how I come across to strangers that I meet like that. I felt a little self-conscious about being such a square in comparison to “normal people” like him. I use replacement swear words, I have according to him a sickeningly cheerful disposition, I teach preschool - which says a LOT about who I am. I don’t drink, I don’t smoke, I don’t gamble. I have a boyfriend, but we’re not having sex or living together. The list goes on.
Hearing David restate a bunch of things that he had learned about me felt kind of weird. It was as if to him, I was doing everything right. Before he learned that I went to BYU-Hawaii and was LDS, he said something about “Where’s your husband and where’s your 5 kids?”
I know that it’s a good kind of different, but sometimes I really do feel like an alien in this world. It’s easy to forget how different we are when I’m constantly surrounded by people just like me. I hope that I am never ashamed of the kind of different that I am.
6) Church
So the visa experienced turned out to be a journal entry one. Heavenly Father always finds ways to place people in my path. I hope that it was a good experience for David too.
As soon as I had said my goodbyes, I was back out on the street trying to decide what I would do with all the time I had left. I decided to stop by the church building on the corner and pay a visit. It really felt like going home. There were missionaries there! Lots and lots of missionaries! They were watching conference that they, the session I had fell asleep to in the plane. Nobody really was there that day besides the missionaries. We chatted for a little bit (me crushed to find out that there was no Taco Bell in Hong Kong), and I was about to leave when they pointed out a young girl a pair of missionaries were giving a tour of the building to, saying that she spoke Mandarin and if I wanted to help (since they were cantonese speaking missionaries - and their Cantonese was much better than mine, though I surprisingly understood everything they said). It was a weird 3 way conversation. Miao Miao was from Szechuan, working in Hong Kong. The missonaries from the US, spoke Cantonese to her. She spoke Mandarin back. I translated for them into English. It was weird.
She wanted to know about English classes. They then invited her to stay 20 minutes for a little “presentation”. She stayed. We went to the ground floor to watch “Man’s search for happiness” the asian edition - in Mandarin. Before we started, the Missionaries opened with a word of prayer. They actually invited me to pray (and I only half understood their Canotnese invitation), but I wasn’t confident enough to pray in Chinese so I suggested they do it so she could understand. I spent the length of the video trying to work out a Chinese prayer in my head, resolving to improve my Chinese so that I could do that.
They talked about the video briefly afterwards, and the one elder who had done most of the speaking thus far bore his testimony about how understanding God’s plan for us and our relationship with God brings peace and happiness into our lives. He also talked about how developing this relationship would bring blessings to our lives and to our families. Check me out: I understood all this in Cantonese!!!
They invited her to close with a prayer. Poor girl. She didn’t know how to say no. She hesitated, and froze. The other elder who had been more quiet, spoke up then, in Cantonese no less impressive, going through the steps of prayer slowly. That was when I came in handy. I spoke up too, translating the steps into Mandarin, and telling her that it was just like talking to our father. She started. “Our dear Heavenly Father,” I prompted. And she took it from there. It was the most beautiful prayer I have ever heard. She thanked Heavenly Father for bringing her there. She told Him that she really liked this place, that what she had heard and seen had brought her peace in a time when she was facing trouble and trial and she thanked him for it. She needed my help to end, and I prompted her with “in the name of Jesus Christ, Amen” (which she didn’t really understand, but said anyway). They got her contact information for the Mandarin speaking elders, shook hands, and saw her out the door.
THAT was the highight of my day.
The spirit I felt in that place was so undeniably strong. It was quite amazing to be reminded of the power of Missionary work. I was thoroughly impressed with those missionaries who were doing everything they knew how to serve the Lord. Their humility humbled me. I only know the men who have already served missions now and I know that we treat those who seem to be stuck in missionary mode a little different, deeming them strange or maladaptive, but it’s good to be reminded of what the spirit of the Lord does to a good man. I am ever grateful for having been privy to Miao Miao’s first introduction to the gospel. I don’t know what change it will bring for her, but I know what it means to me.
7) More exploring.
It was hard to leave the familiarity of church and missionaries for the busy, unfamiliar streets of Hong Kong, but it was time to get on my way. I found myself a good place to get a bowl of Wonton noodles to warm me up from all that airconditioning. It was just like home. Mmm. I wandered back up north to the pier and took the Star ferry to Kowloon as recommended and well, here I am in an internet cafe, after wandering up and down Nathan street. What a city.
There’s more adventures. Going to stop by the temple, going to swing dance. I’m wondering if I’ll have time to go to the beach tomorrow. Either way, the adventure isn’t over yet but it’s been a wonderful one so far! Can’t wait to see what’s next!




